The Dark Night – Bali

The Dark Night – Bali

Life in Bali revolves around ceremonies, and one of the major highlights in the Balinese Calendar is Nyepi, the Day of Silence. The three to five day period leading up to Nyepi Day is one of the most exciting, colourful and festive times on the island. However, from...
Sebangau – The Archipelago Journal

Sebangau – The Archipelago Journal

In less than two hours, you can fly from the bustle of Jakarta to the fringe of Sebangau National Park in Kalimantan Indonesia Borneo, world-famous for its orangutans. Stephanie Brookes takes an exotic river journey. I start my trek into Sebangau National Park at...
A Stone Chair Village, Lake Toba, Sumatra

A Stone Chair Village, Lake Toba, Sumatra

On Samosir Island, Lake Toba lies the little village of Ambarita. Tales abound there of rough justice, and possibly even cannibalism. While these are from long ago, more benign old ways live on, for example in the village’s traditional architecture, and an ancient...
Setulang – Deep in the forest, North Kalimantan

Setulang – Deep in the forest, North Kalimantan

When I arrived at Setulang Village, I noticed there were no supermarkets to be seen anywhere. The village is located in North Kalimantan, miles from any major town. It is nestled along the edge of a forest which dates back 130 million years. I was greeted by my lovely...
Paradiso Ubud Celebrates Indigenous Voices through Film

Paradiso Ubud Celebrates Indigenous Voices through Film

Paradiso, in Ubud, Bali hosts Indigenous Movie Nights every month in a lead up to the second annual Indigenous Film Festival – Bali, May 10-12, 2019. Paradiso movie theatre in Ubud was packed out with a full house for its Papua-themed Indigenous Movie Night on...
The Magic Eels Of Ambon

The Magic Eels Of Ambon

On a sailing voyage through the Maluku Islands, I found myself in Ambon. The Portuguese sailed into these waters in the 16th century with their tall ships, on a quest to conquer the islands. They built forts and attempted to monopolise the spice trade, which was...
Ancient Threads Woven in  Karangasem

Ancient Threads Woven in Karangasem

The long trek to the village of Jungutan, East Bali, the site of the Karangasem World Cultural Village Festival was well worth it. I met Miliwanga Wurrben, an Australian aboriginal elder and healer, in a most unlikely place. We came across each other in the remote...
Jasri Bay Hideaway, Candi Dasa, Bali

Jasri Bay Hideaway, Candi Dasa, Bali

I spotted a small unassuming wooden sign and on the spur of the moment decided to take the tiny dirt track to Jasri Bay Hidden Hideaway. The sign was on the main road, just past the busy little seaside town of Candi Dasa. The track passed a river, wound through a...
REFLECTIONS 2018

REFLECTIONS 2018

Each month, NOW! Jakarta brings you tales of hidden heritage from our intrepid traveling Stephanie Brookes, writer. During 2018 they have brought stories back from Lombok, Sumba, Lembata, Belitung, Sulawesi, Kalimantan and Bali. From meetings with traditional whalers,...
EAT PRAY LOVE – Falling in Love with Bali

EAT PRAY LOVE – Falling in Love with Bali

—There’s more to Bali than beach clubs and Bintang. Stephanie Brookes gets an intimate glimpse into the elaborate preparations for Galungan, a festival that reminds you of the spiritual charms of the island— Galungan is a wonderful time for the Balinese, Ibu Wayan, an...
Lazy Cats And Savannah Lands – Baluran National Park, East Java

Lazy Cats And Savannah Lands – Baluran National Park, East Java

Leaning over the sturdy railing at the waterhole, I made sure to look up to check no lazy cats were lounging in the nearby trees. This was macan tutul country – home of the Javan leopard in Baluran National Park, East Java. I asked the ranger, Pak Teguh if he had...
Meeting the Baduy People, Java

Meeting the Baduy People, Java

The Baduy people live only 167 kilometres from Jakarta. They live in the Kendeng Mountains, follow a traditional way of life and do not embrace any aspects of modern living.  It is, for example, forbidden to use a wheel or travel in a vehicle with a wheel. They do not...
At Torajan Funerals, Grieving is Impolite

At Torajan Funerals, Grieving is Impolite

Journeying through Tana Toraja Regency in South Sulawesi, one comes across many extraordinary sights and experiences. The region offers stunning landscapes including lofty mountains, lush highlands and ancient terraced rice fields. Perhaps most interesting of all is...
Jakarta – a hub of history and culture

Jakarta – a hub of history and culture

The best way to start to explore the historical and cultural side of Jakarta is to take a walking tour around Fatahillah Square. It is named after the national hero who gave Jakarta its name, ‘Jayakarta’, meaning “town of victory”. Some of the best-preserved colonial...
The Dancing Masks of The Babukung

The Dancing Masks of The Babukung

Pangkalan Bun in Central Kalimantan is a long way from anywhere. However, as soon as I heard about the Babukung Mask Festival held there every year, I went on the hunt to find out more. Not long afterwards—after two connecting flights from Jakarta to Pangkalan Bun—I...
Cliff Top Golfing On The Bukit In Bali

Cliff Top Golfing On The Bukit In Bali

There is nothing quite like golfing in Bali.  What can be more invigorating than hitting a golf ball over terraced rice paddies, or more satisfying than draining a putt while a soft ocean breeze washes over you? Bali’s southernmost tip, known as the bukit, sits high...
Tamarind Temptations – A Spa in Ubud, Bali

Tamarind Temptations – A Spa in Ubud, Bali

It can take a lot of searching to find a perfect spa in Ubud as there are so many choices. You can seek out the five-star, high-end establishments, set in hanging gardens and on cliff tops, but they often come at a price that is over the top.  On the other hand, you...
Lembata, a Jewel in the Solor Archipelago

Lembata, a Jewel in the Solor Archipelago

Sitting between Timor and Flores, Lembata is the largest island in the Solor Archipelago. Small villages dot the landscape, and tourism is still very low-key. The island has a rich tradition of weaving using natural dyes. Village life often seems to move to the gentle...
Kuching, Borneo, Malaysia – The Marian Boutique Lodging House

Kuching, Borneo, Malaysia – The Marian Boutique Lodging House

The Marian has a history which dates back 130 years. It was initially built as a family mansion and then became an all-girls boarding house. I loved the black and white theme throughout the hotel and the original timber floors made from thick belian, ironwood of...