Seram Island in Maluku Province of Indonesia is steeped in tradition. Deep in its mountains and along its coast, several indigenous tribes still hunt with long wooden spears and adhere to their old ways of life. The largest island in the Maluku archipelago, Seram is...
It was love at first sight when I first saw the Hotel Majapahit, Surabaya, in East Java. This glorious colonial hotel has catered to luxury-end guests since it opened its doors over one hundred years ago. Stories about the hotel abound. World-acclaimed novelists,...
Within one day of arriving in Ketambe Village in Gunung Leuser National Park, I spotted three gibbons, five Thomas’ Leaf monkeys, and three Sumatran orangutans. You have to get up early to catch the wildlife; by 5.30 am my forest lodge was a hive of activity. People...
“I am Tenggerese, and our people are descendants of the 13th-century Majapahit Kingdom”, the flower seller said as he adjusted his bouquets. “Please leave these flowers on the crater rim and offer a prayer. This offering will make the gods of the mountain very...
On Samosir Island, Lake Toba lies the little village of Ambarita. Tales abound there of rough justice, and possibly even cannibalism. While these are from long ago, more benign old ways live on, for example in the village’s traditional architecture, and an ancient...
