According to Chinese astrology, the Year of the Horse is a time for fast victories, unexpected adventure and surprising romance. It is an excellent year for travel; the farther away and off the beaten track, the better.
On Lombok, you have the deserted beaches of Seger, Serenting and Tanjung Aan, and you can also venture into the forest and acquaint yourself with the local Sasak villages.
I found myself entering a cool, dark forest trail. I was in Sasak country, South Lombok, and soon, the forest cleared. I was riding alongside a rice field, the rice stalks brushing the bottom of my chaps. This was a first for me: discovering that rice not only grows on terraced hillsides but can also be cultivated and grown deep in the forest.
I continued on the trail to a grove of tall coconut trees. The canopy provided an umbrella of shady relief, and then, by some prescriptive magic, I crossed a picture-perfect cool mountain stream. My fine four-legged friend provided a welcome spray of hoof-shower droplets, lightly sprinkling me as I rode.
Riding in South Lombok is a refreshing experience in nature. My previous riding experience had only extended to horse arenas in cities, which is an excellent grounding in learning the skills required to handle a horse and grasping the technique of that somewhat awkward grace of trotting. But experiencing a trail ride takes horse riding to another level. The opportunity to ride through nature, observe the stillness of the trees, fall into the mesmerising, gentle rhythm of the horse, and be at one with a magnificent 17-hand beauty is a truly profound experience.
Soon we came upon a Sasak village. This small traditional village had a pretty exciting vibe as wedding preparations were taking place. The women were busy making offerings, and the young girls were dressed in their best lace and finery. I asked one of the elders when the wedding was going to start. “Oh, we do not know, sometime in the afternoon or later this evening. Sometimes a bride and her groom can take a long time to prepare. We don’t mind waiting.” She said this with a huge warm smile that spread across her time-honoured, weathered face.
The next part of our three-hour horse trek led us out of the forest and onto the beach. The beaches of South Lombok are pristine and protected from development. Tanjung Aan beach sweeps around the southern peninsula of Lombok to reveal a picture-perfect blue lagoon. The chalky white sand and the crystal-clear waters cradle the horseshoe-shaped bay, juxtaposed with two vivid green grassy hills at either end. These two verdant apple-green hills looked to me like perfect golf greens. As I approached the grassy knoll for a better view of this spectacular beach, I was delighted to find a natural stone staircase leading to the top.
My love of horses increased ten-fold on the next part of my unique riding adventure. The horses were led into the azure waters and de-saddled. I had been told beforehand to bring my swimmers, but I did not know I would bathe and swim with these beautiful steeds. My gorgeous jet-black horse, named Blackie, allowed me to slip onto her back and swim with her at chest height in the water. The feel of her silky fine coat and water-soaked skin was heavenly. I felt at one with this mighty animal as I hung on to her mane for balance and, for the first time in my life, rode bareback. What a feeling! I was so excited, as were my other riding companions. There was plenty of hoopla and outbursts of laughter and delight as together we experienced this most unusual sensation, heightened by the fact that we were so close and able to be so tactile with our horse. Our guide, Eka, encouraged us to jump off their back, slip on again, and play games in the water. The horses loved it, and Eka told me that when children have this horse-bathing experience, it is unique to watch – how the horses and the children relate. One feels instantly childlike when playing in the water with a horse. We were not rushed at any point to go back to the beach and head on home. Everything was so relaxed and easy – I could have stayed for hours.
Added to the fun and frolicking, the coolness of the water was a welcome relief. We had ridden for three hours in 30 ̊C heat. The soothing relief and benefit of the welcome water therapy were just the remedy for my aching, sore muscles. You rarely use your leg muscles in the way you do when horse riding, so no matter how fit you are, it is hard to prepare for it fitness-wise.
A beautiful tea service was waiting for us back at Eudaimon Villas (www.villa-lombok.com), served in delicate bone-china teacups, and the rest of the afternoon was spent admiring the dramatic ocean views from the teak terrace. A hilltop hideaway haven, Eudaimon offers an extensive wine selection and a menu of fine French food, Indonesian fare or a fresh seafood catch of the day, all prepared at your schedule in liaison with your villa cook. Pierre, the French owner, has thought of every luxurious item, from genuine Cuban cigars to fine tea selections, including Palais des Thés and Mariage Frères Paris, to imported liqueurs.
As I sat sipping my delicately delicious tea and dusk settled around this perfect evening, I contemplated my next Year of the Horse. Lombok is a secret spot tucked away in Sasak country, and discovering its beauty on horseback is certainly one of the most enchanting ways.
5 Senses – Sight
Horse Races
One ubiquitous sight in Lombok is horse racing. In the town of Praya, young boys (under ten) ride bareback and draw big crowds at the weekly meets. Most young jockeys start training at around four years old and hit their peak at seven years old. Once a jockey hits ten, he retires. It is said their legs are naturally bow-shaped and perfect for gripping the horse, which is necessary as they race at high speeds and have no saddle.
5 Senses – Touch
Dress The Part
What to wear when riding? It is best to wear tight trousers or leggings. Do not wear jeans as the inside seam will rub and chafe. No shorts. Chaps help to give a bit more protection for your legs (Eudaimon provide them). Wear a T-shirt or tight top. You will sometimes pass by branches and low trees, so you want to avoid loose items that might catch. Trainers or running shoes are acceptable, or if you have boots already, small boots with a small heel work well.
5 Senses – Sound
Drum Line
If you are lucky, you may catch a significant festival in Lombok and witness a traditional Sasak drumming performance. Men wear colourful traditional sarongs and garb, and carry the Gendang Beleg (big drums) across their bodies. These drums produce a distinctive sound, filling the air with a mesmerising beat. The drummers train for years and are highly skilled and graceful.
5 Senses – Taste
Starry Dinner
Spoil yourself and your partner with a private dinner on the beach under the stars for the ultimate romantic dinner. Enjoy the natural beauty of a secluded beach with freshly caught seafood served by your personal chef, who prepares gourmet temptations in the most romantic candlelit setting. As the stars appear above you, your toes connect with the sand below you, and the breeze whispers around you, this unique setting will provide the most memorable evening of enchantment.
Published Garuda In-flight Magazine – April 14
Story by Stephanie Brookes
