Negara Buffalo Races
One of the bull chariots slid off the track, trying to round a corner, and the crowd erupted into a huge roar. I was in Negara, West Bali and positioned on a sharp bend. I felt like I was right in the race. These bull riders take a risk with balance and speed to gain valuable ground, and it is common for accidents to occur on these corners.
The start position of each buffalo is crucial to claiming victory in a buffalo race. Each animal is spaced at a five-meter distance around the circular four-kilometre track. The riders need skill, speed control, and an armour of bravery to compete and ride in these great buffalo race events. The mastery these fine riders have over their buffalo is magnificent to behold.
The buffalo themselves are very well cared for and are paraded in a unique fashion show before the start of the race. Adorned in bright, colourful ribbons and sashes, each animal represents the different villages of the Jembrana regency.
When you plan a trip to West Bali in November, you can witness the major buffalo racing event – The Jembrana Cup (known as The Governor’s Cup), held in Negara. The other major event well worth seeing is the Regents Cup, also held in Negara. This is generally held in August. These two events are timed to coincide with the rice harvest.
Buffalo racing is known locally as Mekepung and is taken very seriously in this region. It is an integral part of the local culture. The racing buffalos are called kerbau pepadu in the local Balinese language. Every Sunday preceding the actual race in August and November, the buffalo riders practice at one of the seven circuits in the area, honing their skills in preparation for the big day.
So, what is the big incentive for these riders? The lure of the first prize is one motivation – a healthy buffalo (worth thousands of dollars), plus several lesser (but very valuable) prizes up for grabs, but this is not the main driving force for the riders. It is the opportunity to bring honour to their village – a display of their strength and masculinity and the desire to return home as victors.
Negara
The main town of Negara is based in a beautiful location, nestled between the mountainous West Bali National Park in the north and the Indian Ocean to the South. Historically, Jembrana attracted the seafaring Bugis people who settled in the area back in the 1600s, coming from Java, Madura and Sulawesi. They have remained Muslim, and in fact, there is one mosque to every five Hindu temples in Jembrana. The town of Prancak is well worth a visit, and you can witness the Bugis boats returning at sunrise with the previous night’s catch. The sight of hundreds of these brightly coloured 10-meter-long boats emerging out of the foggy morning resembling Viking ships is another wonder of this area. From the shore, you can hear the Bugis fisherman singing their old seafaring songs and celebrating joyfully if the previous night’s bounty was plentiful.
Culturally, this area is amongst one of the most interesting in Bali, with various art forms found nowhere else on the island. The most famous of which is the Gamelan Jegog. These bamboo instruments produce a very deep base sound that seems to rattle your bones as the players strike the keys with heavy mallets in perfect unison, accompanied by the delicate sound of a flute. When combined with the Jegog Dance (not performed anywhere else in Bali), watching the Balinese woman dressed in bright yellow silk, moving in perfect unison to the deep ancient traditional sounds, you will soon realize why a visit to this part of Bali is well worth the effort.
The buffalo race dates for each year’s event vary. A rough estimate is that several heats take place monthly from July to November at the various circuit locations. All heats usually take place over the weekends on a Sunday morning. Buffalo action, colourfully clad Bugis schooners lining the shore, the warmth and friendliness of the people, and the unique dance and music of West Bali make this journey one that will entertain, intrigue and delight you.
Published: www.nowjakarta.co.id
