When I opened the map and studied the geographical layout of Sulawesi, I was intrigued by the shape of this unique island. It is said that Sulawesi looks like an orchid, and indeed, this is an apt description of a truly remarkable place. So, inspired by this fact alone, I decided this was a good enough reason to visit.
Sulawesi was once known as the Celebes. Historically, it is renowned for its spice trade and has long been a great nation of traders, farmers, and boat builders, and is home to a diverse range of religious beliefs, including Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, Hinduism, and Confucianism. Each of Sulawesi’s four provinces offers the traveler a completely different cultural experience. Choosing to venture into North Sulawesi, I was promised an adventure that would blend coasts, reefs, and stunning volcanic highlands.
Manado – North Sulawesi’s Underwater Playground
Manado is your gateway city to discovering the diving wonders and hidden gems of North Sulawesi. The famed Bunaken Marine Park, with over 2,300 species of fish and extensive coral gardens, offers some of the richest and most diverse sea life in the world. I indulged in a one-week underwater experience that exceeded my expectations. Bunaken is a world-famous dive spot. However, I am a snorkeller and my week was spent floating amongst the colourful reefs and iridescent coral gardens, with every day bringing new discoveries.
In Northern Sulawesi, there are over 100 dive and snorkeling sites catering to divers of all skill levels. The 1500-meter vertical coral wall off Bunaken Island is the big drawcard for divers, and snorkelers alike. The marine park is North Sulawesi’s most precious asset, and I was impressed with the stringent marine environmental policies we had to adhere to when our boat and our bodies entered these azure blue waters.
To access Bunaken Island itself, a permit is required, and the proceeds from this contribute towards the protection of the rich marine waterways. The marine education programmes are well established,and locals and tourists alike follow the strict guidelines, ensuring that it remains one of the cleanest marine environments in Indonesia.
To mix up the snorkelling and water activities, I was looking for something different to do, and my resort manager came up with a perfect answer – a visit to the ancient mangroves.
The Enchanting World of Mangroves
We motored for a good two hours, passing pristine coastal scenery, before pulling into a secluded and mysterious bay. To my surprise, in the middle of what seemed like nowhere, there was a little dugout canoe party waiting. I had a choice of which dugout canoe I wanted to take, and a group of friendly, smiling locals were at the ready with their long poles, eager to take me off into the wilds of the mangroves. This was a first for me – getting into a dugout canoe. As we entered the mangroves, it grew darker by the minute as we ventured into the depths of the mangroves. Every now and then, a heron would gracefully swoop across the bow of the boat. I must admit, I have never been that fond of mangroves, but the experience of cruising slowly and quietly through this world of dark, gnarled roots, tangled branches, and low-hanging creepers changed my view. It was a magical world. I was filled with awe and wonder at every turn, and what I enjoyed the most was the solitude and peacefulness of this ancient landscape.
Volcano Lands – Minahasa Country
Next, we headed into the volcanic highlands of Tomohon with my trusty local guide, Roy, who assured me our first stop would be the famous coffee house, which serves “very good coffee” and homemade toast from an open fire. As I sipped my Sulawesi black coffee overlooking the aptly named Madonna Bridal Salon, there was another interesting observation. My fellow coffee patrons (all men) were all huddled around a TV watching the exploits of the 1960 classic Ben! Oh, for the love of travel. I love the fact that you can transport yourself back in time when you escape from the big cities of Indonesia. Life in Tomohon was fascinating. Every day, local life moves at a pace all of its own. Negotiating our way through town meant navigating through a maze of brightly tasseled horse-drawn “bendis”, motorbikes, and only the occasional car! Our next destination was The Gardenia – an absolute delight.
The Gardenia – a place of flowers and beauty
When we arrived at Gardenia Country Inn, I felt like I had entered a different world. The setting was reminiscent of an English cottage garden, with prize-winning, manicured flower beds, water ponds, lilies in full bloom, tiny wooden bridges crossing petite streams, and beautiful sprawling lawns fanning out to frame the dramatic backdrop—a towering, active volcano.
Instead of being shown to my bungalow, I was invited to sit, and soon enough, a beautiful tea service arrived with delicious cakes. What a welcome! This is not the place to rush off and find your room. The gracious service and warm welcome allowed me to take a rest first and take in the mountain views. After taking my leisurely afternoon tea, I was led down the path to my bungalow. The last rays of the afternoon sun softened the garden setting, and right on cue, the resident puppies bounded across the extensive grounds.
Surprisingly, all the (unoccupied) bungalows had their front doors wide open. Every shuttered window was also open, to take in the fragrance of the gardens and fresh air. I noticed that every room had an arrangement of fresh gardenias, even though guests did not occupy the rooms. Here was a special place.
A feature of the Gardenia is the positioning of the meditation day beds placed around the extensive grounds, which invite you to unwind and relax in this calm mountain environment. The church bells tolled at 6.00 pm. Every day, I heard the sound of church bells. Within eye distance of the church, I also sighted a Buddhist Temple perched high on the hill above the grounds of the Gardenia. On the way here, I had passed several mosques. In this remote area of Tomohon, there were three religions all practicing their beliefs side by side—a reminder of just how diverse the culture, religion, and traditions are in Indonesia.
The next morning, I headed into the local village to visit the bustling traditional pasar (market). Here I was surrounded by colours, smells, and sounds of a culture that existed on a different level. I saw no plastic or packaging. The produce was wrapped in banana leaves and twine. Spices, tobacco, and chillis were stacked in huge piles. I followed the smell to the fresh coffee and purchased some of those great coffee beans I had enjoyed so much in the coffee house. For just Rp10,000 rph (US.80c) I filled a big paper bag.
I spent the next three days climbing volcanoes and visiting hot springs, complete with bubbling mud pools. I discovered the Japanese war caves, enjoyed a fantastic seafood lunch on Lake Tonado, and even visited the local horse racetrack.
Somehow, I managed to pack a lot of living into my two weeks in Sulawesi, and I would encourage anyone who has a love of travel to venture to this rich land of smiling faces, unique beauty, and surprising adventures.
Story by Stephanie Brookes
FACT FILE
Murex Dive & Live Aboard Resort, Manado, Sulawesi
www.murexdive.com
Tour Guide – arranged by Murex
Gardenia Country Inn – Tomohon, Sulawesi
Instagram: @gardeniacountryinn
http://www.gardeniacountryinn.com
Updated June 2025
