Leaving Kuta behind, STEPHANIE BROOKES explores a fascinating island
Getting out beyond Kuta can reveal a whole new Bali experience to the traveller — one of heart and soul,
allowing you to observe how the Balinese live in harmony with their land. Journeying to the mountain regions and quiet villages reveals the wonder of the island. Escaping to the far reaches, discovering the sleepy east-coast beaches or delving into the dramatic jungles
around Ubud with their moss- covered temples are only some of the delights that await you. One of the most dramatic areas for scenery and intense beauty is the Karangasem regency.
Colourful Balinese dancers, waiting to perform. Pictures: David Metcalf
KARANGASEM
Just two hours from Denpasar, Karangasem is dominated by Mt Agung which, at 3142m, towers in all its glory over East Bali.
The spectacular foothills and crevices created by centuries of lava flows from the peak of Bali’s most sacred and highest volcano provide a landscape of beauty unrivalled anywhere in Bali. The great Mother Temple of Besakih sits perched against this wondrous backdrop and small traditional villages, which make up the rich tapestry of Balinese history, spread out under its protective aura.
Hidden among the hills and valleys is an ancient culture that still adheres to its age-old beliefs. I visited one of these small traditional villages, Tenganan, and met with Wayan Togia.
He told me his village became accessible to the outside world only in 1985. “I remember hauling rocks and working tirelessly as a 15-year-old road worker. Together with the men from my village, we made a new road and this was the first time I came to know about motorbikes,” he explained.
Wayan lives in a Bali Aga village. Bali Aga means original Balinese and the people who inhabit this 11th century village (the most ancient village in Bali) hold true to their traditional, ritualistic practices.
Historically, most Balinese people are descendants of the Majapahit Empire, which is essentially ethnically Indian. However, the Bali Aga culture is different.
The Bali Aga people celebrate their culture with unique ceremonies and festivals that have remained intact since time immemorial.
Try to time your visit to incorporate one of these events (they occur every month). The Usaba Sambah festival includes seeing an old Vedic rite involving a swing ritual.
Boys and girls climb on to a tall wooden structure and a turning platform propels a series of giant wooden swings and sends young ones swinging high above the ground.
Mt Agung looms above the ocean.
AMED
Venturing another two hours to the east coast of the island, you can enjoy a beach stay in Amed, with the feel of the 1970s. Amed is what Kuta would have been like 40 years ago. In fact, only a matter of 10 years ago Amed was all cornfields and salt farms. Now charming little hotels are dotted along the beaches, with great cafes and seafood restaurants, a couple of yoga studios and a very friendly vibe. People come to Amed for the snorkelling. The coral reefs are close to the beach so, for visitors who don’t like long boat trips, these can be accessed from the door of your bungalow. In terms of accommodation, you will find a good mix of quality villa complexes, small hotels, and humble little homestays where it is still possible to sleep for $10 a night.
In addition to all the charm that Amed itself offers, the town sits cradled under towering mountains, covered in dense jungles, offering excellent options for trekking and day- trips.
Gunung Kawi
UBUD
Only one hour north from Denpasar you will find the centre of Bali dance and culture, a royal palace, art galleries and more than 300 restaurants. Ubud is also famous for its rice-field walks, which are accessible from the centre of town. Wandering the small paths, you will stumble on traditional villages and little artisan hamlets. It is also an historic area where you are greeted by 10th century temples every 15 minutes in any direction. One of the finest of these temples is the moss- covered, alluring Gunung Kawi.
I met Wayan Mahendra, the temple sweeper who has been sweeping for nine years at Gunung Kawi, and he took me through the jungle to a series of open doorways, chiselled from the rock. The caves stood in a straight line, symbolically representing an open door.
“A door to the other world,” Wayan explained. One of these monuments contained a large shrine, which honours King Anak Wungsu (AD1050).
The main temple is a chiselled grand masterpiece of 10 candi (temples), set in the cliffs. A long staircase takes you from the main gate down to the Pakerisan River, cutting through a stunning jungle-clad and vine-strewn river gorge. You get the feeling as you descend this steep staircase that you are entering into the Valley of the Kings.
Fishing boats on the shore.
WEST BALI
West Bali is a remote area, rich in culture, and offers the visitor something quite out of the ordinary. It’s only 95km from Denpasar but the drive is slow and takes a good three hours.
Expect loud, excited crowd roars at the buffalo races in Jembrana. The track bursts into action in race season (August and November) every year. It’s quite a fast and furious sight to behold as these buffaloes gallop at full pace with the rider hanging on for dear life.
Two-wheeled chariots take on the field as they race against their opponents with whips cracking, knuckles clenched and reins gripped while sweat pours from their bodies. If you want to feel the thrill, intensity and excitement of the race then position yourself on the corner of the track. Be prepared to see a few accidents, as the rider and buffalo come hurtling around the corners at great speed. Culturally, this area is one of the most interesting in Bali, with various art forms found nowhere else on the island. It is well worth catching a performance of the gamelan jegog. The bamboo instruments used produce a very deep base sound, which is mesmerising.
The players strike the keys with heavy mallets in perfect unison, accompanied by the delicate sound of a flute. When combined with the Jegog Dance (not performed anywhere else in Bali), the graceful flow of bright yellow silk fabric will have you entranced. As the skilful dancers move in perfect unison to the deep ancient traditional sounds, you will soon realise why a visit to this part of Bali is well worth the effort.
Take a trip next time you visit Bali beyond the iconic developed tourism strip of Kuta, Seminyak, Legian and Nusa Dua, and find the delights of the island.
It’s a small island, surprisingly only 153km wide and 112km from north to south, so these hidden charms are well within reach.
